Saturday 18 May 2013

Untravelled roads of Javadhu hills

One of our friends was from Vellore. He knew that there was a small zoo and waterfalls nearby. It was on the edge of a forest area. We are taking about the Amirthi Zoo and waterfalls. That sparked an idea about a bike tours through Javadhu hills. This hill range is part of Eastern Ghats starting from Vellore district, thirvanamalai district to dharamapuri district. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Javadi_Hills

Our plan was to reach Amirthi and sightsee Zoo. Then travel up the hill road through Nimiyampattu and reach Jamunamarathur. Next day have a nice splash at Bheema falls and start to yelagiri. We wanted to travel only through the hilly roads and chose to travel the roads not travelled.. a road though vasanthapuram village and climb down Javadu hills , reach Andiappanur and the climb up yelagiri hills.. We did reach yelagiri as planned,  but wanted to know what happened on the way.. keep reading.

Day – 1
It was late March 2013. We two friends started from Chennai at 6.30 am in 1 bike. We were fearing a harsh sun but it was pleasant surprise to have a cloudy morning. We will be meeting our Vellore friend at Kanamangalam some 25 from Vellore on Vellore - Thiruvanamalai route. He was riding his Honda Unicorn. So 3 friends and on 2 bikes. Our biking friend was very excited as it was his first long drive on his new Pulsar and managed to touch 101 km speed at one point. We reached Kanamangalam through NH4 up to Arcot and diverting to Kanamagalam some 27 kms for Arcot on SH 129. We filled fuel for bike and fuelled our wallets at Arcot and zipped to Kanamangalam on neatly laid out road.

We two from Chennai reach by 9.30 am while our Vellore friend who is supposed to be reach early from nearby Vellore reach only at 10.00 am. We found a 'ok' kind of restaurant at Kanamanagalam, filled our own fuel tank that is, breakfast, packed 3 biriyani for lunch and asked our way to Amirthi Zoo. The road nearing the zoo went through tall shady trees and reached the forest check post. There we bought tickets for zoo entry and forest entry.

The zoo was a small one, hardly 15 to 20 cages, wild birds, 1 snake cage , crocodile, porcupine and 2 foxes. It was very difficult to tell if it was a fox or a stray dog. A huge herd of deer was maintained in a separate area of zoo. However one animal was not in cage , in fact we have to be inside a cage to escape from them.. Monkeys. Monkeys were everywhere. They were trying to snatch food which is understandable. but they were also snatching the water bottle and drink from it. A peacock started dancing with wings fully fanned out... remember, I mentioned it was a cloudy day. The splendid colours of blue and green shades and gentle dancing gestures were a treat to our eyes. Our lensman captured the entire action in motion.

At Amirthi Zoo
Deers Everywhere




Angry Bird

Walking beauty
Peacock in Splendour
We continued on the same road to Jamunamaratur. We travelled past a village and we were expecting the road ahead to be a motorable trail or a the best a broken hill road to Jamunamarathur. So we planned to have lunch some were on the way and reach Jamunamarathur before night fall. It was our another pleasant surprise of the day. The road was neatly paved ghat road winding through a valley and raising through the top of Javadu hill range. There were many hair pin bends. The road was deserted and never say any vehicle pass us. We felt the experience was thrilling not knowing what is in store for us in the later part of the day.
 
On route to Nimiyambattu
Riding our way
from down the Valley
to the Hills above
 to view the Valley below







through the winding roads
We reach a road junction. On the right the road continued. Straight ahead and on the right it was dirt track. We checked with the local villagers. They were eager to guide us as they seldom get such visitors to their place. We learned that it was Nimiyampattu. They directed us to continue on the tarred road. We stopped at some scenic places and took snaps. Kept riding on. I observed that we climbed a hill and started descending it. There were many sudden sharp curves. Long stretch of winding road all along deserted. Then, we started seeing people and passed few village and reach what seemed like a town. There was a Main street and some shops. Read the shop sign board, and to our surprise it read 'Jamanamarthur'. The time was 2.40 pm. 

Nimiyambattu to Jamunamarathur

Blossoms of Nimiyampattu
onlooking at the strangers
Alayamgayam Range
Against the Alayamgayam range
We have planned for night halt there but we reached by lunch time. So we decided to lighten our back packs. That is to eat the 3 hot biriniyi pack we have been carrying since morning. It was small picnic town on the hill. There was a boating lake with not much water level for boating. There was a rundown park where only stray dogs visited. We had no option, but sat under a shady tree, quickly started eating the delicious biriyani under constant stare of the dogs. Those dogs too had their surprise of the day when we started throwing the leftover meat and bones. They all waved their tails thankfully. Quite understandable, as it was their treat of their life. After all who could have treated them with biriyani in such a remote town. After lunch my brain started to work, I was wondering why we have not travelled through a forest trail but through a well laid road and suddenly realised that we should have went straight head at the Nimiyampattu junction. It was the trail we were planning to travel, but instead took the well laid road.
  
Now that we had all time on the earth, had quick discussion. We were eager to see the Bheema waterfall. We rode for a 1 km on a paved path hardly enough for a person to walk. Again this time the path was deserted and local people gazed at us. I though it as not a good sign. I expected to see people with hair and clothes all wet, happy faces coming back from the water fall. I was preparing for it hit us. water falls?   where was it.. We have been having a pleasant surprises and it was time for a rude one. A local told us until last week it was at least a trickle. We could have been glad if we just get our feet wet... it was all dried up. There was a forest watch tower nearby. We took some pictures of the distant hill ranges and started back on the narrow path.
 
View from the top of forest watch tower at Bheema waterfalls.

 

Wild dry jungle

We reach back Jamnunamaratur by 3.30 pm. We had nothing left to do here, felt bored . Our smart friend from Vellore has insisted to carry on. We had so much daylight left and we dared ourselves to start the second leg of our journey. It was actually meant for next day. We started from Jamunamartur towards Alangayam. The road went through a dense dry shrub forest. There was occasional two wheeler passed by even a route bus from Vaniambadi to Polur passed by. We crossed the gate of IIA. Indian institute of Astrophysics. Yes, it is situated in Kavalur in amidst a dense forest area. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vainu_Bappu_Observatory. It has a observatory telescope tower. We checked with the gatekeeper. These days they are not allowing the public for security reasons. We took some close up pictures with Observatory tower and moved on.. Read on.. we will be also taking some long shots pictures with the observatory

Near Kavalur Observatory
Kavalur Observatory tower
Waiting from me to finish snapping
I know, I promised to share some thrilling moments.. Expect that in a short while. I was riding the pillion and was watching out for diversion to take to Vasanthapuram village. I noticed it and promptly asked our guys to turn back and take the diversion. We were again surprised to see that road was neatly laid. It may that there is not traffic to spoil it. But it was narrower than road travelled that morning. A 4WD can travel without room any for oncoming vehicles. The road has a deep trench dug out all along one side of it until the diversion to Vasanthanpuram village. I know such trenches are made to keep out wild animals entering into to human populated area. As road winded past further into forest area there was thick overgrowth on both the side. There was no other noise except our bike's humming. This made it really spooky. We were raiding faster than we should be for that narrow jungle path, to finish off the lonely route before sunset.
 
After a while the thick overgrowth on the both sides of the path turned in to hill slope. Hill slope raising on one side and rolling down on over the other side. We have been riding through turns after turns on the hilly slope. We should have travel at least 30 kms in that jungle path so far. We got glimpse of setting sun and it was around 5.30 pm. I suddenly felt... hey ! are we heading in the right direction ?!. Why? Because, We should have taken a dirt trail/road downhill to Andiappanur by now but we were yet to see it. Our hearts sunk to our foots for a moment. We stopped on a road turning overlooking the valley below with Andiappanur dam in view. The scenery was nice by our moods were not. Our smart friend from Vellore frantically checked if something can be worked out from the GPS on his i-phone.. There was a reason for some joy. The real 'Smart' phone was able to picked up whatever little signal it could gather and showed us where we are. It clearly showed us we are in middle of nowhere. It showed that the diversion we were expecting has pass way back nearly half way from where we started near Kavalur. At this time of the day when night fall is in next hour and not knowing where we were, we were stared at each other, feeling lost and sick.
 
Then the turn of events were all for good. We were seriously discussing if we can turn back to find the diversion downhill that we have missed. Our best surprise of the day came when 2 local people came riding on the way from opposite direction. I immediately felt relived, for that I know if people are coming in opposite direction there is road to reach some destination where people live and possibly nearby. We have been travelling this path for nearly 2 hours but never found a soul. But they came when we most wanted them. They stopped wondering what on earth these strangers are doing at this part of the world. They told that there is no road downhill to Andiappanur. Either we need to proceed further to Pudur nadu or turn back to Kavalur. They advice us to turn back to and follow them. They could accompany us until Vasanthapuram. We were hesitant to turn back. They simply rode away thinking if we were really in our senses. One thing was clear, there was no path or trail that the local people know of downhill to Andiappanur. Blame it all on Google map and me to have believed it.
 
The next surprise was immediately following, 3 young guys came in a bike going towards Kavalur. They stopped ,but were not so surprised to see us. They could have felt that we young guys are seek adventure and stopped to have fun at this scenic place. They advised that we can reach Pudurnadu some 30 to 35 kms away and from there to Tirupatur another 35 kms. Local were always right in that they directed us away for non existed path here or unused trails at Nimiyampattu earlier that day.
We are talking about travelling around 70 through forest road and the time by now was around 6.00 pm. I was thinking if it was wise to turn back which would by only be 40 kms through the jungle road. Again our smart friend from Vellore took the call. We will proceed towards Pudur nadu. Yes, he was right. Otherwise, we could have missed the best sceneries we were yet to see. I had complete sense of relief as I knew where I was going and I far it is. I took to Pulsar and lead in front to set the phase. The path continued on the hill slope where at one point the slope was facing east. The magnificent view of the forest landscape down the slope and at the horizon the observatory tower of IIA was visible. We realised the distance we have travelled through that jungle. It was hard for us to believe that we had started an unplanned journey, got lost, got saved and still riding on to find the unknown path ahead in the jungle.
  
We were watching it again... 
what is the white speck on the horizon?
Long shot with the observatory.. hardly visible


A short distance from there the path took a complete turn and now the slope is facing entirely westwards. What a scenery! There could have been many traveller like us who have traveller this path. But I wonder how many of them would have been in the time of the day, observing a gracious sunset from the top of the hill with view of Andiappanur dam below and distant view of Yelagiri hills. It was most the scenic place in the entire route. We stood there for some time, excited about our luck of getting to see this scene after much unrest just an half hour back. And to count it was another surprise of the day never the less not the last one.
  
Sunset View atop Javadu hill range facing Yelagiri.


The setting Sun
we were exited
We were rewarded
Gazing at the scenery
Against the sun
on the lonely road
-->I started to keep a faster phase as the darkness started to cover. Road went downhill into a valley. We passed through some villages and road was wider now. I turned back, our guys following me were not seen down the road. I waited there. A gang of local men, carrying a huge swine hang from a wooden pole with legs tided passed by. It should have been caught in the jungles around. I was amazed to them carry the swine, I was sure it was their dinner. I asked how far pudur nadu is. They stood with load on the shoulders and replied not to discourage me. They said it is nearby and I would reach in another 10 or 15 mins. Did some chatting with them with their shoulder still carrying the load. They wished me luck and moved. I felt how nice and simple these people were and did not wanted to discourage me, because I know it going to take at least 45 mins to reach Pudur nadu.
  
I was waiting for our guys to follow and did not seem to appear at the end of the road. I turned back, passed our local men carrying the huge pig on their shoulders and travelled further and found them slowly approaching. I asked our guys to keep faster phase to reach in time to find a lodgings at Tirupatur. I also informed our friend that we will come across some people carrying a huge swine and, ask them how far this the Pudur nadu. Our friends asked then and they advised it is just 15 mins from here. It encouraged them and so we started to ride our bikes briskly.
 
Further down road there was a diversion. We were wondering which way to take. The next surprised hit us in few minutes. Another biker in passed by. We asked him which way is Pudur nadu and down to Tirupatur. He said he going the same direction and asked us to follow. By now it was twilight and almost dark. We had to use the headlights and indicators lamps to signal the turning. The local biker ahead of us frequently checked if we were following him. As he should have been used to that road, he maintained a fast phase. I was comfortable in following him, but our smart friend from Vellore has no option but to keep phase, or get lost again. Every now and then he had slightly turned back and checked if we were following. The night insects were hitting all over our face. We could have tasted few bites of insects. But, no insect bites. Some landed directly in our mouths. We could have followed him for 30 to 40 minute and reached a small village road junction. Our pilot biker signalled a right turn and went ahead even faster into darkness as if he was going slower for us to follow. Local people were waiting at a bus stop. I briefly paused to checked with them how far Tirupatur is. Few of them early came forward and said in the range of 30 to 35 kms. The time was 5 past 7. Then I knew we were at a reachable distant from our destination at the end of the day – Tirupattur.
 
The road then had some sharp turns and went downhill. A short distance down the road my headlight struck a milestone, read Tirupattur 31 kms. Local people were more accurate this time as they did not need to encourage us. We were at a reachable distance on a better road. It was wide enough for public bus traffic.
 
In the dark the sharp curve seemed to be sharper. At each slight turns we had to go by sense of sound as good as we use our sense of light to find any on coming vehicle. I was not used of night driving in Ghat road for that matter even driving at ghat road. So, I did not wanted to miss our sincere pilot biker ahead. I started to increase the phase to catch him. He could have though that is his task was done as he placed us in the road up to Tirupattur and reassumed to his usual phase. It was much difficult to reach him as was I was on my own to judge the twists and turns of the ghat road in the dark. At last I manage to get the sight of the tail lamp of our Pilot in one of the straight stretches. From that point on I know that I cannot afford to lost sight of the pilot's tail lamp. At every turn I made sure to keep enough phase to be able to see his tail lamp vanish in the darkness on the next turn. I was simply judging the turnings ahead only by sight of the tail lamp. The turning is in the direction the tail lamp turned and sharpness of the turn by the way it was leaning. There were numerous hair pin bends and sharp, possibly dangerous curves. I was negotiating all of them with a lesser effort following our pilot. However keeping phase to have a sight of him ahead was in itself was a challenge though, I was thoroughly enjoying this new experience. If it was difficult for me keep up to speed with our pilot, I could not imagine how our smart friends from Vellore following me could have 'taillamped' my bike with our another friend on the pillion. Now thinking about it, If I had travelling on my own in that dark night it would have easily took 1 hour to travel down that 25 kms down hill.
  
At one of the hair pin bends the plains ahead was visible in full view. The lights of Tirpattur town were visible at distance. I could see the downhill was not far from there, so stopped enjoy the view and thankfully let go our Pilot tail lamp vanish down the road. I sat on the side wall and waited for our friend to reach. A route bus to Pudur nadu came working its way up that hair pin bend. I thought about the people waiting at the road junction at Pudur nadu. They had another 40 mins to get their bus. Our friends managed to reach after 5 mins. We all sat down and enjoyed the view of lighted town in the dark. We were again excited to be in a situation, we never expected to be in. We ate whatever snacks were left and emptied the water cans. Time and again our smart friend proved himself by giving timely ideas. He suggested that we all watching night show of the new Tamil comedy movie release that very day.
 
We started from there, I took to piloting our friends through rest of the downhill, this time to match their phase. Rest of the journey was through village roads then we hit a state highway, reached Tirupattur. Time was 8.10 pm. The time we decided to proceed towards Tirpattur and till we reach there it was around 3 hours and nearly 70 kms. We have travelled a entire range of Javadu hill east to west through 100 kms of jungle road. We have planned to reach Vaniambadi next day but ended up at Tirupattur. All that was left for that day was to find a lodgings, have dinner and watch the new release movie. We did all that. The surprises never let us go that entire day. There were another 2 to follow. One was the nice dinner we had at a small roadside hotel. The taste was worth mentioning. We never expect it to be so tasty from a mediocre looking hotel like that one. It was a great treat for us after a exciting travelling all the day. What a way to end a day. This was about the movie. We were all unabatedly laughing away at the movie. Another unexpected surprise at the very of the day. When we all crashed to bed it was 1.30 am next day. We were all simply too tried to even pondering over the thoughts on how eventful this day was?
 
Day – 2
Sun has risen long before we rose. We started out with a slow phase. We had a Bruch. It was in good looking restaurant. The goodness was only about looks but taste was quite mediocre. We could not expect everyday to be as exciting as the day before. We refilled our tummies and it is time to refill the fuel tanks. The destination was Yelagiri. None us have already visited Yelagiri. But the excitement was muted as the road was main road. We reach foothill by 1.30 pm started riding up the Yelagiri ghat road, stopped at some of the Hair pin bends overlooking Vaniambadi and shot the usual shots. 

 Snaps at Elagiri road


Yelagiri road starts

..and proceeds
... and turns
... and provides an breath taking view
.. and ends at the top
-->
Reach the top to find it not resembled a hill station. We had only few things to do, Boating at Yelagiri and sightseeing Eco park. Boating fun as always. We decided to explore rest of the Yelagiri hills, travelled along a road where it ended at a Temple. We took some snaps and returned back. We were feeling hungry and found a road side tea stall. Hot bondas were been fried there.. It was so tasty and fresh , each of us ate so many of them, which we last count. The stall owner was smart enough that she kept count for all three of us. We had tea and wanted to pay, she said something less than Rs 50. We only wanted to reward her for her smartness and not out of our fondness to bondas, helped ourselves with more bonda's to rounded off to Rs 50. One memorable thing at Yelagiri was eating countless bondas.. The next thing left was to visit Eco park. The park was nice, small and well kept. We quickly went around the park, though I was interested in capturing our friends in good light. Yes, evening sun shine was giving some nice lighting for some good snaps.

The Lake view
view from lake
men at boat
peddling away
  
At the garden






-->

It was 6.00 pm and still some day light was left. We started to ride down hill. I don’t want to struggle in the dark, riding through the ghat road. I don’t wanted to repeat adventure we had one day before. Our friend from Vellore allowed me to ride his bike downhill. It was a real thrill riding the bike through the hair pin bends. I did not had to accelerate, I simply kept changing the gears and the bike went rolling down the sloping road on its own. I felt like a bike racer when leaned at each hairpin bend maintaining the speed. Our friend at the pillion was equally cooperating to lean and rise at every curve. The same phase continued till Ambur.

One last important thing was left to be done as part of the Journey. Tasting Biriyani at Ambur Star Biriyani. This was part of the original plan and original plan was part of me. Our smart friend from Vellore had one part to play, to eat as many biriyani plates as he could. The famous biriyani restaurant had branches at Chennai were we used to eat and wonder how it will taste at the original Star Biriyani. It was our chance to eat from the horse's mouth. But before that finding the horse's mouth amidst so many other black sheep’s was challenge in itself. A tip to the readers. Look out for IRCTC symbol on the sign board. Only Original Star has IRCTC symbol on its sign board. We found Star biriyani opposite to Ambur railway station. It was not much crowded. All of us slowly relished mutton biriyani and chicken fry. Finished off with Mukkan pada, which simply melted away in the mouth. I packed a biriyani to home. The final touch came with a sweet beda. We had a chat with the a restaurant staff , asked why Star Biriyani at Chennai does not taste good as in Ambur, he simply said it because of water used in Ambur and Chennai were different. It did not sound like a good enough reason. We depart of our homes at 8.30 pm. Our smart friend left to Vellore. The NH4 had lesser traffic during that night. we zipped through NH 4 and reached Chennai at 12.30 am

A word to travellers wanted to take this route. This route is good for 1 day trip starting from Vellore to Tirupattur. Travelling after monsoons is better to have splash at Bheema Falls. You can find a small petrol pump at Jamunamaratur. Useful to refill if required. The route : Vellore – Amirthi – Nimiyambattu – Jamunamaratur (Bheema falls) – Kavalur – Vasanthapuram – Pudur nadu – Tirupattur ( 120 Kms )

Cast & Crew
from left the Vellore guy and the other Chennai Guy
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